Runway Report from London: The Christopher Kane Show

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Left: Fall 2008 sequins / Right: Spring 2009 circles

Christopher Kane's keyword when describing his fifth collection? "Prehistoric." The oversized paillettes of Fall/Winter -- immortalized by Barneys' Julie Gilhart's gray besequined frock at The Costume Institute Ball -- this season grew into more sizable half-circles of chiffon, leather, and organza in the mode of Pierre Cardin: albeit in Christopher's case, framing the models to a scale-like dinosaur effect.

Renowned for his sumptuous knitwear (manufatured at Johnstons of Scotland), Christopher and sister/design partner Tammy continued the leitmotif with Flintstonesque animal print cashmeres. The Glasgowian literally thrust the jungle theme to life with digital prints of Digit the gorilla's grimace plastered atop a pair of jersey dresses; pieces that will also translate come buying season to effortless, more economically-sound T-shirt dresses (not presented on the runway).

The shoes were marvelously en pointe: a bon mot indeed considering that the mules and sandals boasted spiky rhino horns to boot. The ensemble of the season? Tautly wire-structured single-shouldered dresses of unearthly nude and white chiffons.