Bar of the Week: Madam Geneva

Madam Geneva, the lounge attached to the new British Raj-inspired restaurant Double Crown, serves jam cocktails. As in fruit spread cocktails. Though it might not be that outlandish of a concoction, it sounded like a recipe for floating globs and other generally disagreeable textures. A bartender working the night we visited, however, kindly explained the process: All drinks are made with a base of gin (or vodka), lemon, sugar and crushed ice. Preserves, homemade by said bartender, are scooped onto a teaspoon that comes resting across the rim of the glass, served on the side for self-mixing. We had the mixed berry and vanilla ($10) and orange and cardamom ($9) and globby messes these were not: The preserves added a citrusy, tangy pop to the gin, and, combined with the crushed ice, created a fruity slush at the bottom of the glass.

The space takes its name from the slang term for gin in 18th century England and has a 20-odd collection with labels from India, South America and Scotland. The juniper-averse, however, will have to make do with bottled beers (including Aspal cider $15 and Lucky Lager $7), and wines by the glass. A small-plates menu includes a few of the same "Hawker style," Asian-inspired street food offered at Double Crown -- pigs in a wet blanket (lychees stuffed with sausage), pork belly and steamed duck buns. Prawns ($11) are served in a pint glass, stacked vertically. Their heads are removed, deep fried and tossed in as a garnish (be brave -- they were so good) and are served with a Sriracha and mayonnaise sauce. Both the restaurant and lounge are owned by Public proprietors and design firm AvroKo, who have created a subtley vintage aesthetic. While Double Crown is open and airy, Madam Geneva is dark and mysterious, with lace panels overlaying the walls (some with little broaches affixed), blue leather parlor couches and claw-footed chairs. Its trendy Bowery location might make weekend visits unpleasant; this might be a school-night kind of place. Until then, the madam awaits.

Madam Geneva
4 Bleecker St. (enter through Double Crown at 316 Bowery)
( 212) 254-0350