Restaurant of the Week (Don't Forget Edition): One if by Land, Two if by Sea

Sometimes you want to impress a date the old-fashioned way. Take her to a spot adorned with fresh flowers instead of fresh-out-of-college club kids, for example. A place where the soundtrack involves the tinkling of ivories instead of the thump of a DJ. With chandeliers, fireplaces and antique Village charm instead of halogen lights, plasma screens and trendy lounge trimmings. Long known as the place for getting-down-on-one-knee or meeting-the-parents, One if by Land, Two if by Sea has always been a great wooing site because of those classic frills. But what if you don’t want your date to get the wrong idea by strapping into a pricey meal amid such trappings? Talented new chef Craig Hopson comes to the rescue with a terrific menu of sophisticated, sharable bar bites. Florida frog legs beignets ($12) entice with delicate, crisp battering and a pleasant saltiness; a cumin-flavored crust wakens blocks of salmon, drizzled with a soothing preserved lemon yogurt ($15). Shaved foie gras with mustard-raisin jam atop brioche ($12) exudes luxury in each bite. Cocktails like the bleu cheese martini ($15) or the maple Manhattan ($15) mingle nicely with everything. Since chances are a stop here will ensure you get lucky, keep the new $20 brunch in mind for the morning after, too. 17 Barrow St., (212) 255-8649