Restaurant of the Week: Silent H

Vinh Nguyen, the owner and chef of Williamsburg's new Vietnamese restaurant Silent H, is an unassuming type, who as well as expertly wielding a kitchen knife, can play a flawless game of poker, have you laughing like a fool and listening to Radiohead all day -- all day. One of my earliest encounters with him was during a group weekend getaway. He spent evenings preparing unfussy but delicious meals and making sure we were all satisfied. The same atmosphere prevails at his first solo endeavor, Silent H, named appropriately after the silent h in his name. Nguyen gutted the smallish spot (formerly the cavernous eatery Oznot's Dish) and effectively opened it: While the wood of the bar and chairs is a deep color and the walls dark blue and scarlet, the place feels spacious and is flooded with light during the day. Nguyen is always there, deftly making the very fresh Silent summer rolls ($6) and green papaya salad (seared slices of pork belly and sliced shrimp over greens and papaya, ($10) or serving up beef carpaccio with flaming hot sauce ($9). Mains include caramelized black-peppercorn pork loin chop ($15.50) and pan-fried sole ($15.50), a huge serving of the fish over rice, topped with okra, spinach, herbs and a hinger-scallion soy sauce. Brunches center around banh mi, classic Vietnamese street sandwiches made with pate (for vegetarians, a tofu spread) and a choice of pan-seared chicken, white pork salami, glazed grilled pork, kielbasa and fresh vegetables on a toasted baguette. (For those who don't brunch, Nguyen is introducing a miniature version for the dinner menu.) Garden summer rolls (a vegetarian version of Silent summer rolls, with asparagus replacing the peppered shrimp) are two for $5. For now, Silent H is BYOB, but what we all can't wait for is the back garden, where sipping the naturally potent and sweet iced Vietnamese coffee and swooning to Radiohead is going to be our regular summer pleasure. 79 Berry St., (718) 218-7063. Alex Zafiris