Restaurant of the Week: Papatzul

The moment I had the first taste of my margarita ($9) at Papatzul, I knew I was in good hands. Smooth Herradura Silver tequila, triple sec and fresh lime juice made for a tart, fresh, invigorating icebreaker to any conversation. Before moving to a table in the white-brick dining room—which looks more like a SoHo bistro than a Mexican cantina—it’s fun to start your buzz at the intimate bar while surveying the dozens of excellent sipping tequilas on display. On the menu, freshness prevails, featuring a big molcajete (stone bowl) of lush guacamole ($8), supple octopus with smoky-sweet chipotle sauce and thinly sliced avocado ($10) and a trio of crunchy quesadilla pockets stuffed variously with wild mushrooms, chorizo, poblano peppers and cheese ($9). The warmth of owner-chef Thierry Amezcua comes through in his homespun dishes like the budin al pasilla ($15), a tortilla casserole laced with shredded chicken, black beans and pasilla chiles. Originally from Mexico City, Amezcua is a longtime New Yorker who has worked in the kitchens of Savoy and Il Buco. He’s hired a sweet staff, and it’s apparent that this restaurant, nestled next to Toad Hall and Lucky Strike, is a dream realized. The food has depth, especially the duck enchiladas ($18) coated with fabulous almond mole and a patterned drizzle of thick crema. Papatzul’s food is creative but doesn’t overreach or try to dazzle. It has a quiet confidence that’s very attractive. 55 Grand St., (212) 274-8225. Julie Besonen