Restaurant Review: Hung Ry

Noodles. Noooodles. Nooooooodles. It's highly improbable that people exist who don't love noodles, who would say no to, "Hey friend, let's go get noodles," which is exactly why, just after Snowpocalypse, Hung Ry was still full of noodle heads. The best seats (at the bar) were occupied by couples sampling mild monkfish liver alongside a savory heap of hen of the woods mushrooms ($8) and tender short ribs veiled with beige foam ($6.50) that went well with a guzzle of cold Laotian beer ($5). Though satisfactory, the starters are really just a buffer activity while the noodle puller stretches and swings a pile of formless dough into long tangles of noodleness ready for the brothing. A rich pork belly and brussels sprout bowl ($16) is the unanimous winter winner, with a decidedly vegetal duck breast, gizzard and red pepper bowl ($16) at a close second. Both are best with thick noodles, while the black feather chicken breast, egg and greens ($15) are wonderful with thin. It's best to fill up and finish the entire bowl on the spot, which will help retain warmth once you're back out on those chilly snow banks on Bond Street. On the way out, it appeared that a new set of noodle heads had arrived, each of them plowing through bowls of noodles like snow trucks that should have plowed through Brooklyn.

Hung Ry

55 Bond St. 

(212) 677-4864

www.hung-ry.com