A Master at Work: Simon Spurr S/S '12

Martin Marks

For some reason, at Simon Spurr's S/S '12 show yesterday, my eyes kept wandering to the backs of the suits, almost as a technical afterthought. Fine tailoring, you see, is as much about the front of a suit as it is the back, about the hang of the shoulder, or the lay of the padding.

Spurr, a British-born designer who studied menswear design in London, has worked with the likes of Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, and Hedi Slimane. He was also recently selected to participate in the CFDA's "Americans in Paris" fashion initiative. His collection, now in its fourth season, proved that not only is Spurr an excellent craftsman -- front and back -- but also an excellent designer.

In his nimble hands, the collection managed to integrate what some might consider to be irksome trends -- the low-hemmed shirt and mesh tank-tops being particular offenders -- in a way that was equally appealing as it was handsome. Blazers with leather arms and zigzag patterned suits -- even a slouchy, hooded raincoat -- were sharp in both execution and design. His camel overcoat with black sleeves was especially wonderful. It's a pleasure to see the hands of a master at work.

PAPERMAG's Complete Spring 2012 Fashion Coverage 

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