Cafe culture is supposed to be spontaneous, but the cafe is one of the most emulated, pseudo-intellectualized and flogged styles of bar or eatery -- especially in Eurocentric Nolita. Why the newish Epistrophy would seem any different to passersby is beyond me, since the decor is just like that of any other local wine bar. But inside, it achieves a surprisingly strong communal vibe, with the whine of the espresso machine, the wooden plates of antipasti and punters sharing long tables. Sardinian owners Luca Fadda and Georgia Vedda have charmingly thick Italian accents, big brown eyes and live-free ideals: Fadda, a musician, runs a successful literary/musical festival back home and hosts a mini version of it here called E Se . . . (What If . . .) on the tiny stage at the back of the space. Both, Fadda explains, grew organically out of artist-types hanging out at the same place, thereby inspiring the moniker Epistrophy, the title of a Thelonius Monk composition that works toward every note being at once improvisational and intentional. During the day, the place is more of a coffee shop, but come evening, the wines (from Italy, France, Spain and Australia) and conversation flow freely until 2 a.m. A.Z.