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Zac Posen never fails to impress us. We remember his first show when we felt
like he was channeling the legendary Hollywood costume designer Adrian, who
reached his peak designing for stars like Joan Crawford at a time when the prime
objective of a female star's costume was to dazzle the audience. This, mixed
with his Alaia-esque ability to hug the female form in a chic and non-vulgar
way, show a level of sophistication rare for a young designer whose number of
shows is still in the single digits. An amazing thing about Zac is that he
sticks with his trademarks, regardless of where the winds of trend blow. Always
the elaborate constructor, his pieces hint of 1930s and '40s glamour with an
old-school flourish at the sleeve and shoulder and a Missoni-esque love of
dramatic pattern. The color palette also stays within a certain range with
neutrals, mossy greens and lavenders. This season, more than anything, was about
pretty clothes. Skin on top, whether in scoop-necked or strapless dresses and
tops, and structured strong shapes on the bottom. We like the pieces with
cutouts, reminiscent of children's cutout snowflakes. Most of all we're always
impressed with Zac's ability to rise to the occasion. There hasn't been a
misstep yet, which is rare in a major design career. MICKEY BOARDMAN
PHOTOS BY CAROLINE TOREM-CRAIG
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