Evan Yurman wears a Bengali tiger claw set in gold around his neck. For the 23-year-old New York-born-and-bred designer, jewelry moves far beyond adornment -- it's an embodiment of his most personal desires. (The Bengali tiger claw signifies power and strength.) He travels the world, seeking antiques, emphasizing Victorian pieces for both their craftsmanship and talisman-like qualities. He likens his views on jewelry to most guys' views on cars. "Not just some sports car, mine's a bitchin' 1970 Plymouth GTX -- rare, completely custom, it totally expresses me," he says. "I search everywhere for the same in jewelry, something beautiful that both expresses and inspires."
It's this attention to craft that draws Yurman's super-groovy friends to him when they want something unique. "I make things that cater to the personal -- I help people emblematize contact with their own identity." He also makes pieces for the collections of various designers including Nom de Guerre, As Four and Alife. For the past year and a half, Evan has been the Director of David Yurman Men's Jewelry and this year will launch a line for his renowned designer father, adding a 19th-century flourish to items like an iconic braided-cable bracelet or a classic ring remade in black titanium. "I add my mark, but it's really about a respect for the David Yurman heritage." As interesting as the poison ring he just made for Kate Moss? No. But still pretty cool.
JACOB BROWN
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