Fashion is a rags to riches business. American menswear, in particular, without an established tradition and overshadowed by its European counterpart, requires equal parts alchemy and grit. After all, Halston, who had both, was born in Des Moines, Iowa.
Menswear designer Tim Hamilton is the youngest of seven children. The family grew up in Iowa, where Tim's father, a World War II veteran, worked as a construction worker. They divorced when Tim was young: His mother, who traveled and danced before settling as a housewife, raised him alone.
Tim Hamilton himself describes his upbringing with a certain distance: "It's the classic Midwestern story -- going to the Big Apple, trying to make it big," he summarized. But a circumspect sense of history is the luxury of those who have moved forward. After launching a menswear line in 2006, Hamilton was nominated for the CFDA (Council of Fashion Designers of America) Swarovski Award for Menswear in 2007.
"Boy, you're getting personal, aren't you?" Hamilton asks at mention of his upbringing. It's a history palpable in the clothing. It also gives Hamilton, and his clothing, a sense of craftsmanship. Speaking of his time working as part of the design team at Ralph Lauren, Hamilton is appreciative, but the process was more conceptual, and "less nitty gritty" than is his preference. With his line, he and a small team of interns put together everything in the designer's Chelsea apartment.
In only his third season, Hamilton has created a sensible, very American line. Hamilton speaks of colors and fabrics, and touches the collection as it hangs in his room. Bomber and motorcycle jackets are reversible in cobalt and metallic prints. Hamilton looks to revive the soft, woven fabric chambray, typically used for work clothing. Shorts come in two lengths: shorter, with a five-inch seam, in candy colors; a longer, in a classic Bermuda with a slick silhouette. The dress trousers are slightly tapered, in a shiny herringbone print. Hamilton offers an almost knee-length cardigan, in 18 gauge knit, with black buttons. For shirts, there's a variety of collars and cuffs, ranging in dress style and collar. Hamilton tops it off by squaring off the tie.
Alex Gartenfeld: Why have you chosen to do a presentation, rather than show?
Tim Hamilton: I don't think I'm big enough for a show. And besides, shows don't make as much sense for me as a men's setup. This is more low-key, and also a bit more intimate, because we are presenting in a studio space. I like the idea that people can stare at the clothes, and talk to each other or talk to me. And we're looking to get alcohol. Get everyone really wasted, and then they'll love the clothes.
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