Brooklyn-based painter Angel Otero has been everywhere from Istanbul to India, but one of his most enduring sources of inspiration is his native San Juan, Puerto Rico. The rising art-world star tries to get back to his hometown once or twice a year, so we asked him for some insider tips on where to hang out in San Juan.Pa'l Cielo and La Respuesta Bars
The new place to hang out in San Juan is Santurce, which is actually the town I was born in. It's become the Williamsburg of Puerto Rico. It used to be an area where mostly Dominicans were moving in and opening food businesses, but over the past five years there's been this boom of young newcomers with babies and puppies opening little coffee shops and galleries. I go to two bars there every time: Pa'l Cielo and La Respuesta. La Respuesta is a gallery/music venue for local performers, bands and DJs. Pa'l Cielo, which means "to heaven," is also very chill. They both have good vibes, good music and cheap beer. They get crowded with local creative types--painters, musicians, DJs, actors. On my most recent trip home, I went out with one of my best friends who is the owner of a music label. It was interesting to go out with him and see everybody recognize him and what he's doing with the label. At Pa'l Cielo, we met this singer, Calma Carmona, who's starting to get known on the island and sings a mix of R&B and bolero. She's incredible. You should Google her.
Pa'l Cielo: 2056 Calle Loiza, Santurce, San Juan; La Respuesta: 1600 Avenida Fernandez Juncos, Santurce, San Juan.
Walter Otero Contemporary Art Gallery
My friend Walter Otero is opening a new gallery in December and my show will be the first exhibition there. I went to see the space and it's in an abandoned Chinese restaurant. There were a bunch of Chinese decorations all over the floor when I went and it still looked really messed up, but I could tell from the architectural plans that it will be very cool and modern. A big architect on the island, Pedro Muñoz Marín, is working with him. Walter also has a great range of artists that he works closely with, like Allora & Calzadilla, who represented the United States at the last Venice Biennale.
Walter Otero Contemporary Art Gallery: 402 Constitution Avenida, San Juan.
El Refugio BarAnother bar I like is called El Refugio. It's on a secret side street right next to the University of Puerto Rico. It's been there for many, many years. The owners are very Christian and there are a lot of religious figurines all over the place. There's also a jukebox, a fucked-up pool table and a patio with a beautiful garden that has a fountain with a Virgin Mary in it. It's a place to meditate and to relax--that's why they call it the shelter or el refugio. Besides all that, they're famous for a drink called chichaíto, which is a shot of rum with anise. When I was in university, I would go there to escape and talk to people about literature or politics. There's a group of loyal fans who have kept going there, even though it's been years since they graduated. They go back for the atmosphere. There's one character there who's maybe 40 and always has a backpack. He's a really famous dude because supposedly he won the lottery a long time ago but decided he didn't want to spend the money on material things and instead wanted to study at the university forever. It's weird because here's this guy telling you these stories but he has the most intense smell of rum on his breath and is super drunk. It doesn't matter, though. The bar is about taking inspiration from these weird characters who have these unique stories that touch you whether they're true or not.
El Refugio Bar: Calle Balseiro, Rio Piedras, San Juan.
Abracadabra Counter Cafe
One of the best restaurants in San Juan is this theater café opened by a husband and wife. They serve amazing food and espresso. You can get brunch with pancakes and French toast and eggs, which is uncommon in Puerto Rico. While you're eating, the same people who serve you start performing on a small stage. Sometimes the guy who's making the coffee will all of a sudden be like, "Grab my hand and come with me," and he'll take you on stage and start improvising. It's a great concept. I went to a show there this Halloween.
Abracadabra Counter Cafe: 1661 Avenida Ponce de Leon, Santurce, San Juan.
Yeya y Fela
Fifteen or 20 minutes from San Juan is a town called Piñones in a coastal area that has a big Afro-Puerto Rican population and great food. They have this specific food that's been on the island for years and years called alcapurria. It's like this mash, kind of like plantains or yucca, and stuffed with meat or seafood. They fry it and it's so tasty. It's super fried. The place I like best to get alcapurria is called Yeya y Fela.They make it right on the street and you eat that with a cheap beer or maybe coconut water with a little whiskey and go sit on the beach, which is maybe 10 steps away.
Yeya y Fela: A stand on Carretera PR-87, Piñones, Loiza.
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Photographs Courtesy of Angel Otero