Richard Chai had the luxury of debuting his Love show yesterday on the first official day of New York Fashion Week, a time when heels are still high, air kisses are doled out liberally and people are positively giddy as they take their seats.

But the cheery mood didn't last. As the lights dimmed, 'How Soon is Now?' by the Smiths hit the speakers and models took to the runway in a collection cultured for the counterly-chic. It was somber, but sellable.

An array of muted prints were the perfect puzzle pieces for pattern on pattern dressing, all with a grittier edge. Sweaters featured punky stripes shown in a thick grayscale to start then punched up with thin strips of sapphire and wine as the collection progressed. Grunge-worthy florals came in oxblood and a tie-dye in black and lilac.

Silhouettes featured a great balance of unaffected slouch -- wide legged trousers and
paper bag waistbands -- and taut restraint --  skinny turtlenecks and crisp collars buttoned at
the neck. A combination Chai is known for.

Jackets were the strongest story. Cropped? Check. Double-breasted? Done. Varsity? You
bet. The most appealing were the over-stuffed puffers in red corduroy for him and sandy
leather for her. Thank Chai for something warm to wear next winter besides a black or
khaki fur-trimmed parka.




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