PAPER
Word of Mouth
eric-ripert-oct14.jpgLast month Le Bernardin reopened after an extensive renovation, modernizing its look, adding a lounge and making it a greener environment by pursuing LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) certification. Chef/co-owner Eric Ripert took a few minutes to talk to us about the changes.
 
Have you gotten your first Con-Ed or water bill yet, showing how much money you're saving?
Not yet, but I can't wait. We removed 600 incandescent bulbs from the ceiling and replaced them with LEED lights. We got new faucets and changed the dishwashing machines to energy-star rated ones that recycle water and have lower consumption. We're basically using one-third less water than before so the bill should be cut drastically. In terms of being progressive and environmentally friendly, we feel very good about that.
 
It fits in with your philosophy about only buying sustainable seafood. Do you think your customers care about your restaurant being greener?
The majority don't, but I think they'd be happy to know we're doing that. You're the first person who's asked.
 
Given all the talk about Occupy Wall Street and the 99 percent versus the one percent, is it fair to say Le Bernardin caters to the top one percent in the country?
No, it is not fair to say that. We have a lot of people who come here who are not necessarily very wealthy. People have told me, 'I saved all year long to celebrate my birthday or anniversary here.' Most of our clientele is wealthy, no doubt, but we reach out to a much wider audience than the elite.
 
Have you been down to visit Occupy Wall Street?
I don't have time to see my family so I don't have time to go downtown.
 
I heard on a Leonard Lopate show that if a fish in your restaurant doesn't sell in 24 hours you donate it to a city shelter. How does that work?
We have a fridge in the basement of the kitchen that is dedicated solely to City Harvest. They give us containers and we fill them with fish, produce, bread and desserts. City Harvest comes every day to pick up what we package for them and the shelter cooks what we are giving. Desserts and bread are ready to eat, obviously.
 
Do you think the people who come to the shelter know they're eating food from Le Bernardin?
I heard about one lady in line who somehow knew it was from us and she told people. The lady was our best public relations.
 
Are you getting a younger crowd in your new lounge? Is it a way for people with smaller budgets to have an experience at Le Bernardin?
We noticed a younger clientele before the renovation, for the past four or five years. It was part of the reason we did it. We felt with food and service we were where we wanted to be, but with décor we were outdated. We want young people to feel it's a contemporary restaurant, not a museum.
 
So you can just go into the lounge and have a drink and a bite? You don't have to be going on to dinner?
We have a cocktail list and wines by the glass and a lounge menu with gravlax, ceviche, lobster rolls with truffles. for $15-$19, meant to eat with your friends. It's more casual. Jackets are encouraged but not required.
 
Would you ever buy fish from Chinatown to make at home?
Why not? I have been many times to Chinatown and when I pass by the stores they have some very fresh fish. You can tell it is fresh because the fish does not smell like fish. At the fish market in the morning I see the Chinese buying small black bass because they're inexpensive. They buy the best fish they can find. They know their turf.
 
When Zagat's 2012 results came out recently, Le Bernardin was rated the most popular restaurant, higher than Danny Meyer's Gramercy Tavern and Union Square Café for the first time in 15 years. Did you hear from him?
He emailed and congratulated us. I cannot imagine Danny being jealous. It is very difficult to call each other so we usually communicate by email. We congratulated his three stars in Michelin for Eleven Madison Park. Sometimes it is Daniel Boulud on top, then it's us. It goes back and forth. We joke about it. It's a competitive but friendly world. Daniel is also a very nice guy.
 
So it's not like politicians in a race, when one loses you have to call and concede?
We are absolutely not like politicians.
 
Do you have any late-night eating habits?
I do not eat late at night. Sometimes I will eat some chorizo or dark chocolate at home. I like a glass of Scotch -- Lagavulin -- on the rocks. I don't smoke weed. I'd tell you if I did. This is America.

Photo by Patrick McMullan
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