Nicola Formichetti Talks Fashion Week Pop-Up, Gaga and Loving Cathy Horyn

Nicola's, named for shop curator and Thierry Mugler creative director/Lady Gaga fashion director, Nicola Formichetti, however, is not your typical pop-up shop.

Other than the far-out clothes and digi-baroque installation within, what makes Formichetti's pop-up space unique is that it's not just about pushing product, but his collaboration with non-profit BOFFO, and Gage/Clemencea Architects, is about fostering the development of up-and-coming designers. (In coming months, the space will house temporary shops with designers Neuwirth and Patrick Ervell).

We spoke to Formichetti yesterday about what's in store for his two week run and beyond. (Also included above are photos from his Fashion's Night Out party.)

Marcus Holmlund: You've been quoted as saying that you don't style, that you instead, create "moods." What's going on in here?  

Nicola Formichetti: I mean, I've done the whole digital thing now for a while and I was getting sort of bored of it. Not bored, but, unhappy because everything was becoming so similar, so homogenized...flat. For me, I love technology and information, so, I'm always about pushing that stuff, but, it was becoming less emotional... I went back to buying books and taking pictures and making mood boards -- things like that -- and I found this marriage of the physical world and the digital world. That's really what this [shop] is -- a reflection of my love for fashion, architecture, technology all in one place. Things that I think are interesting. Where you don't just come to shop, but look, touch. I purposely included the Gaga pieces on the mannequins, so, it's no longer just things you come to buy, but stare at, see that they're real, physical, actual.   

MH:  I was eye-ing that Archive Versace get-up over there on that mannequin. You mean, that's Gaga's? I can't just come and buy it?  

NF: No, I wouldn't want people to. They're too special. But, I want people to see they exist in their form... in front of them.   

MH: Explain this 'Panda' motif you have going on here merchandise-wise...  

NF: I designed the pandas, you know, like Japanese "Hello Kitty"... I created three characters: "NicoPanda." that's me, "ZombiePanda" that's an homage to Rico, and "DaddyPanda" which is kind of the idea of this sexy little guy. They're all over the place: on t-shirts, iPhone covers, iPads. And they're affordable.   

MH: I see there are quite a few racks of Mugler pieces. Can you give me a hint at what this upcoming Mugler collection has in store? 

NF: You can expect things to be more contained. It's all about the clothes this time. It's more digital, it's more colorful. But, a bit more subdued. We're honestly still working on it. When I get out of here, I'll go and continue work on it.

MH: How would you say the Mugler line is doing?  

NF: The clothes have been selling like crazy. But, I don't think people know that. And that's why this time, we're going to let it be known in the clothing. Last time, people just saw it as a show... they couldn't really get a grasp of the actual clothing. So this time, they will really get an understanding of the clothing. I want to really put the emphasis on the clothes because we do have the capacity.   

MH: Are you at all nervous about Cathy Horyn's review? Since Gaga slammed her in V magazine recently?

NF:  No, actually, to be honest, I really love Cathy Horyn.   

MH: You're an editor, stylist, creative director, now shop owner. How do you manage to do it all and stay sane?  

NF: That's always been me. I may do a lot but I still find time to party. [Laughs] It's important. 

"Nicola's"  is located at 50 Walker St. and open Mon.-Sat., 12pm-7pm, Sun. 12pm-6pm. It opened yesterday  and runs for two weeks time.  

PAPERMAG's Complete Spring 2012 Fashion Coverage