Gary Graham's pre-Fashion Week Q&A With PAPERMAG
By Alyssa Vingan
Gary Graham, a 2009 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalist, is living proof that fashion and theatricality still go hand-in-hand. His upcoming collection, which was inspired by everything from a waterslide to an abandoned chair in the woods, is based on a fictitious artist named Augustine Riley, who serves as the muse for each pattern, embroidery, and embellishment he used. We chatted with Gary about his spring line, his romantic style, and his dream customer.
What was the starting point for your Spring 2011 collection?
I took some photographs of a waterslide in Honesdale, Pennsylvania in early spring and liked how the color was so vibrant and seemed almost fake against the brown landscape. I kept going to this copy shop in Honesdale and imagined this girl working there who lived in her own world and was sort of this punk version of Joseph Cornell. I've named her Augustine Riley, and she's also of based a little on Eva Hesse. The waterslide becomes this sort of Rabbit hole for her.
Could you briefly describe your aesthetic?
It's very romantic in a worn, utilitarian way.
You started out your career in costume and textile design - how has this affected your sensibility as a designer?
I started working for J. Morgan Puett who was washing greige goods and that really influenced me in terms of how I would approach a textile in terms of seeing the potential. You sort of looking at something whether it's silk georgette or a quilted wool and imagine the shrinkage percentage and change in hand. I think in terms of theater and performance it was more of how they cross over into reality, I would get really inspired by a character and then put that into a collection in terms of creating her wardrobe which inevitably has to do with "real" life.
Do you have a favorite textile or material to work with? Why?
I work with so much silk I would have to say that. I used to work with this quilter in Williamsburg, and one of my favorite things was to combine different fabrics and quilt and wash them. I don't do that so much anymore, and we've gotten more into creating jacquards combing disparate yarns to create a similar effect.
Out of all of the pieces in your upcoming spring collection, do you have a favorite, "must-have" item?
I think the green "waterslide" organza dress is great. It's completely sheer and can be worn over many different pieces.
Looking through your collections, it's evident that you can do it all! But is there anything that you consider your specialty?
Our knits have become very popular, but I think I would have to say our jackets. They combine different materials and reference the early collections, and are sort of the grounding pieces that combine the material techniques with the theatricality.
If a woman is looking to invest in a key piece or two from your line to start building her wardrobe, where would you advise her to start?
Our knit cardigans are great ways to introduce the "Gary Graham" look into anyone's wardrobe, and beyond that, I would invest in a leather piece or jacket. For example, for fall I would purchase the boiled wool circle jacket in army, which can be worn with everything. It is a bit Dickensian, very comfortable, and can be layered over leather. Or I would get a dress.
Is there anyone who you dream of dressing one day or seeing in your designs?
I don't really dream about dressing specific people, but Karen O. [of the Yeah Yeah Yeahs] recently got some pieces, which made me very, very happy!
Your Comment
Posted at 12:43 on Sep 12, 2010
Gary Graham is a total genious