Restaurant of the Week: The Mark Restaurant by Jean Georges

In 1985, Tama Janowitz's Slaves of New York shone a light on what is now a common city truism:  Many relationships are a matter of real estate. Take a look at the eateries cozying up to hotels all over town -- The Breslin at the Ace, Maialino at The Gramercy and Ma Peche at the Chambers, to name a recent few. The latest marriage of convenience: Jean-Georges Vongerichten (whose flagship has nestled comfortably in the Trump International since 1997) and The Mark, where people with shiny shoes, tailor-made suits and polished reputations (Chuck Scarborough at the next table) fill a tawny-toned dining room. Towering ceilings with a celestial skylight, glass and copper panels and plush banquettes pinstriped in amber outfit the space. The vast menu serves both mass appeal (gourmet pizzas, a raw bar) and discerning palates, foreshadowed by the amuse-bouche -- a crisp fritter of black truffle and comte cheese. Hamachi sashimi ($17), sauced with yuzu, is pounded as thin as carpaccio and garnished with teeny dices of radish, avocado and mushroom, as if made by a Zen craftsman. Pastas rarely excite me anymore, but just when I felt I had seen it all, out came hand-cut angel hair ($14) with smoky baby Brussels sprouts, aromatic basil, salty pistachio, and a surprising hint of mint and punch of chili. The bed of couscous under my branzino ($25) was just as feathery light as angel hair, sopping up the Mediterranean mix of olives, preserved tomato and Swiss chard. The meal ended on an equally divine note with profiteroles ($9) stuffed with fresh whipped cream and vanilla ice cream, drizzled with shaved milk chocolate and a devilishly rich dark chocolate sauce. If the quality endures, this is a match made in real estate heaven.
 
The Mark Restaurant by Jean Georges
25 E. 77th St., (212)606-3030
www.themarkhotel.com