Gentleman of Leisure: Brioni Blazers

Gentleman of Leisure is writer, erstwhile lecturer and notionally overeducated Martin Marks's PAPERMAG column on the things he likes and why.

Unless the Disney Corporation options one of my novels (hint, hint), I’d never be able to afford even a buttonhole hand-stitched by the master tailors at the Italian House of Brioni, let alone my go-to coat, the navy blazer pictured above. Thankfully, as part of his ongoing campaign to keep me in the lifestyle to which I’ve grown accustomed, my father has the bad habit of going to work. This means that for several hours of the day, his closet stands unguarded. Silly, silly man.

For there, under the pallid glow of his closet lights, once shone the gold buttons with inlaid enamel, the red silk inner lining that peeked out from under the notched lapels, the lustrous matte finish of his Brioni blazer.

Four years ago, the siren call of “Brioni, Brioni, Brioni” proved a little too loud. After jimmying the lock, I borrowed this blazer, took it to Neiman Marcus, had the sleeves lengthened, the shoulders narrowed and the chest taken in, and then returned it to his closet. Sometime later, my dad witnessed a small miracle -- that his size 40 blazer fit my size 36 frame like a glove (or, given the last sentence’s confession, like a Brioni Blazer that’s been taken to Neiman Marcus and re-altered on the sly). This had several benefits:

1. My dad thought he’d gained a bit of weight (the foreshortening of his arms remains a mystery), and subsequently went on a diet.
2. My dad gave me this Brioni blazer.

Success all around!

The blazer now on permanent loan from my father’s closet, termed my Panchen Brioni Blazer, became the current incarnation of the Dalai Brioni Blazer -- lost in 2004 on an un-airconditioned flight coming back from Mexico. (Removing my blazer? On a plane? The indiscretions of callow youth!)

The detailing of this sartorial treasure would even out-gentleman Cary Grant (though he, too, was a habitual Brioni-er). Over the years, I’ve gone to cocktail parties in this coat; I’ve travelled in it, drunk in it, danced in it, and slept in it. I would probably go swimming in it if I could ever find that much Saran Wrap. The red silk lining’s a bit torn, and the threading at the armhole has seen better days. However, I’m happy to say that the buttonhole on the right lapel is still intact, a wonderful place for a Mouseketeer boutonnière. (It’s in your hand, Disney Corporation.) Until such a time, at least I know where to find an inexpensive replacement -- given that this article hasn’t prompted my father to deadbolt his closet.

More info:
www.brioni.com (Note: the Brioni Website is still under construction)

Available at:
Your father’s closet,
or,
57 E. 57th Street
New York, NY 10022
(212) 486-0500