Bar of the Week: Brooklyn Public House

Brooklyn Public House, a former candy store in Fort Greene, found much of its antique décor in the basement, where a beautiful old mirror and old posters had been cast off by previous owners. Under new ownership, the space has been lovingly restored into a Victorian-inspired inn, complete with the found accessories, gold damask wallpaper, and a spooky tin type portrait hanging on the wall. There are 24 beers by the bottle and 15 on tap, including Checker Cab blonde, a Twisted Thistle IPA, and Brooklyn Brewmaster Reserve, all carbonated with nitrogen, instead of C02, to keep brews extra crisp. Thankfully, classic cocktails are on the way -- the banquettes in the window are ideal for smugly lounging with a Sazerac or Old Fashioned in front of passersby. Narrow tables in the back are made of wood from the building’s original flooring, and lit with lovely art deco light fixtures hung from above. There’s a food menu with hearty classics like burgers and wings, but, unfortunately, this is where BPH was a miss: our pan-fried chicken with sautéed spinach and mashed potatoes ($12.50) took almost an hour to arrive, and when it did, it was served with chips instead of mashed potatoes, and rice pilaf instead of spinach. Disappointing, but nothing a few more weeks of practice can't fix -- once the kitchen kinks are ironed out, and those cocktails arrive, the Public House will be a neighborhood hub in no time.

Brooklyn Public House
247 Dekalb Ave.
Fort Greene, Brooklyn
No phone