Restaurant of the Week: Graffiti

Graffiti cuts across all cltures, both as street art and as a new East Village spot that feels smaller than a subway car. Chef/owner Jehangir Mehta was smart to insist on stemless wine glasses; the space is so limited it’s easy to imagine crashes. On a recent Thursday night, diners were asked to double up at tables to stanch the overflow. It made for an intimate experience as we leaned in to pluck at cubes of fragrant green mango paneer ($7) and thinly carved pickled-ginger scallops with a hot dab of candied red chili ($12). Mehta, originally from India and one of the most gracious hosts you’ll ever meet, is famous as a pastry chef (Aix, Jean Georges) but his global bistro is decidedly savory. It takes a daring man to put one pizza on the menu with toppings of anchovy, sweet-sour tamarind and a pile of shredded seaweed ($12). I enjoyed the play of flavors. The rich, tender pork bun in a pillowy white wrapper is brightened by apricot chutney ($15) and carries more mass appeal. Braised figs with black-pepper ice cream ($6) and halva with mascarpone date cream ($6) may sound odd, but are comforting and unforgettable once you taste them. Both the food and the wine list are organized by price; headings are “Seven,” “Twelve,” “Fifteen” and “Six” instead of “Appetizers,” “mains,” etc. The entire wine list is $8 a glass and $25 a bottle. Mehta has developed an artistic signature all his own. 224 E. 10th St., (212) 677-0695.